Renaissance Revival Sapphire, Diamond, and Enamel Brooch, Gustave Espinasse

Description:

Renaissance Revival Sapphire, Diamond, and Enamel Brooch, Gustave Espinasse, c. 1900, designed as opposing polychrome basse taille enamel peacocks with rose-cut diamond collars flanking a step-cut sapphire measuring approx. 16.75 x 13.00 x 6.55 mm, framed by rose-cut diamonds and pinecone motifs, suspending a pentagonal fancy-cut diamond measuring approx. 13.30 x 10.30 x 3.35 mm, 18kt gold mount, 3 x 2 3/4 in., French guarantee stamp and partial maker's mark, (minor enamel loss).

Note: Gustave Espinasse produced jewelry for Boucheron between 1900 and 1908 in collaboration with designers such as master enamelist Lucien Hirtz (see note to lot 514). Espinasse's Renaissance Revival work is marked by the use of opposing figures of animals, sizeable gems, and the pinecone motif. For an example of a gem-set brooch with opposing lionesses and pinecone motif produced by Espinasse for Boucheron in collaboration with Hirtz, see Imperishable Beauty: Art Nouveau Jewelry, by Yvonne Markowitz and Elyse Karlin, with contributions by Susan Ward, cat. 51. According to Vever, the Espinasse lion brooch was exhibited by Boucheron in the 1900 Exposition Universelle of 1900, (see Bijouterie Francaise au XIX Siecle by Henri Vever, vol. 3, p. 434.

Provenance: Descendants of the Walters Family, Baltimore, Maryland. See lot 530 for further history.



Estimate $30,000-50,000

Espinasse

Mark is GE with an ace of clubs

Sapphire approx. 14.8 cts. by formula, not a deep stone

Diamond about 2.82 using pear formula with .00615 adj. factor

Enamel losses: right side near peacock's collar, part way down the neck on the edge, small losses on the peacock's comb, left peacock has loss and discoloration at the collar

A couple of little nicks to sapphire

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